Process
Scour derives from late Latin excurare ‘clean (off),’ from ex- ‘away’ + curare ‘to clean.’
For the first stage in preparation for dyeing all fabric is scoured to achieve a deep cleaning. A mild pH neutral detergent is used in combination with washing soda, which is then simmered in water and rinsed. Scouring is an essential process because without it the dye pigment would repel from the fabric. When working with cellulous fibers, textiles are often treated in an additional tannin bath which further strengthens the mordant bond.
Mordant derives from the Latin verb mordēre, which means "to bite.”
The second stage is to mordant. Mordanting prepares the dye to “bite” or “fix” to the fabric for long lasting color. The type of mordant used in this process depends on the fiber type; however, naturally occurring metallic salts such as alum are most commonly used. Mordanting ensures that the dye will bond to the cloth and improves colorfastness for the overall lifespan. Often an additional step is performed traditionally known as “dunging” to set the mordant in place.
Now we are ready for dye. Dye stuff can include fruit and vegetable skins, leaves and roots, flowers and berries, nuts, cones and bark. Heat and time are two of the most influential factors with natural dyeing. A dye vat requires gentle handling in order the extract the clearest colors. Each dye stuff is steeped like a tea for hours or even days. The amount of tannin within a plant will factor in to how well the color sticks. It is important to remember natural dyes are “living” and that some amount of fleeting color should be celebrated.
